Viernes 8
febrero 2018
Cata y extensa presentación de "Vinos de Rumania", dirigida por
Jose Javier Ocon Berango (Jefe de Servicio de Viñedo en La Rioja): a
estudiantes, enólogos, viticultores y sumilleres en el instituto de I.E.S La
Laboral en Lardero. Llegamos a la conclusión de que Rumania tiene una larga
tradición vinícola. Las condiciones climáticas y geográficas de Rumania han
favorecido la viticultura. Grandes llanuras que se extienden al sur de los
Cárpatos y la influencia del Mar Negro. Situada en el mismo paralelo que
Francia, los veranos calurosos seguidos de inviernos extremadamente fríos hacen
que las vides se esfuerzen para propiciar unos vinos tan sorprendentes como
desconocidos.
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Latitud/altitud de la EM: 46,35º/190 m
- Temperatura media en julio en la EM: 19,9 ºC
- Pluviometría anual media en la EM: 540 mm
- Pluviometría en el mes de la vendimia en la EM: Septiembre 45 mm
- Principales peligros vitícolas: Heladas primaverales, sequía, lluvias en septiembre, frío invernal.
- Principales variedades: Fetească Regală, Merlot, Welschriesling, Fetească Albă, Băbească Neagră, Aligoté, Cabernet Sauvignon.
- Temperatura media en julio en la EM: 19,9 ºC
- Pluviometría anual media en la EM: 540 mm
- Pluviometría en el mes de la vendimia en la EM: Septiembre 45 mm
- Principales peligros vitícolas: Heladas primaverales, sequía, lluvias en septiembre, frío invernal.
- Principales variedades: Fetească Regală, Merlot, Welschriesling, Fetească Albă, Băbească Neagră, Aligoté, Cabernet Sauvignon.
Las Variedades más Importantes son:
- Blancas: Feteasca Alba, Feteasca Regala, Gras de Cotnari, Galbena de Odobesti, Francuse, Muscat Blanc, Muscat Ottonel, Tamaioasa Romaneasca, Riesling Itálico, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay y Aligoté.
- Tintas: Feteasca Neagra, Babeasca Neagra, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot y Pinot Noir.
Las Regiones Productoras y sus Denominaciones o Subzonas son:
- Transilvania: región con un 5% de la producción. Incluye: Tarnave, Alba Iulia, Aiud y Bistrita-Nasaud.
- Muntenia: 28% de la producción.
- Oltenia: 17% de la producción. Incluye: Dealu Mare, Dragasani, Arges-Stefanasti, Segarcea y Turnu Severin.
- Moldavia: 34% de la producción. Incluye: Cotnari, Dealurile Moldovie, Odobesti, Panciu y Nicoresti.
- Dobrogea: 10% de la producción. Incluye: Murfatlar, Sarica Niculitel, Babadag y Tulcea.
- Crisana y Maramures: 4,7% de la producción.
Dice un dicho rumano que hay que tomar vino: "Una copa para la salud, dos para el placer y tres para un buen descanso. Cuatro le ponen a uno triste y más le vuelven loco". Por otra parte el consumo de vino en Rumania no es especialmente destacado, sí lo fue su producción.
En Rumanía,
como en la antigua Unión Soviética, un inmenso plan de plantación llevado a la
práctica en la década de 1960 transformó grandes extensiones de tierra
cultivable en viñedos, pero a mediados de la década de 2000 el área total de
viñas en el país volvía a reducirse.
Rumania fue en 1995 el noveno mayor productor mundial de vino. Queda algo más alejado en lo que respecta a exportaciones ya que en el ámbito mundial ocupa el puesto número 20.
En 1998 Rumania
destinó al cultivo de viña para la producción de vino (dejamos fuera la uva de
mesa) 231.200 hectáreas de las que se obtuvieron 6’6 millones de hectolitros, 5
millones de los cuales fueron de vino blanco.
En la
actualidad, la plantación total de viñas ronda las 280.000 ha, de las que unas
250.000 se dedican a producir uva para vino y, el resto, uva de mesa. La
mayoría es de capital privado, aunque aún existen varios miles de hectáreas en
manos del gobierno.
Vinos Comprados en Rumania y Catados en la I.E.S Laboral:
- Liliac Transylvania Feteasca Regala, Romania. €9
- Crama La Salina 'Issa' Sauvignon Blanc, Romania €7
- Budureasca Premium Tamaioasa Romaneasca, Dealu Mare, Romania €9
- Cramele Halewood Colina, Dealu Mare Chardonnay, Viognierm, Feteasca Alba €7
- Cramele Halewood Theia Limited Edition Cramele Halewood colina, Sebes, Romania €9
- Domenici Feteasca Neagra Casa de Cotnari, Romania €7
- Via Viticola Sarica Niculitel 'Caii de la Letea' Cabernet Sauvignon and Feteasca Neagra, Romania €7
- Lacerta Winery Cabernet Sauvignon - Shiraz, Romania €12
¿QUE ES ELVINO COTNARI DE RUMANIA?
Al igual que Hungría, Rumanía contó con un vino de gran fama en toda Europa en el pasado. Sin embargo, mientras que el tokay superó la etapa de socialismo para reaparecer más tarde en todo su esplendor, el cotnari, que era descrito como "verde" y que en París se conocía como la "Perle de la Moldavie", prácticamente desapareció del todo. En la actualidad se está recuperando.
En su origen, el cotnari era un vino blanco natural de postre que se elaboraba en el nordeste del país. Es parecido al tokay, pero sólo un poco dulce y sin la influencia del roble: pálido, delicado y aromático, es el resultado de la botritis cuando ésta ataca a las cepas nativas Grasa y la ácida Francusa, todo ello perfumado con la nativo y muy aromática Tamaiosa (la uva de incienso) y con la Feteasca Alba. Su envejecimiento en barrica es breve, pues su complejidad se desarrolla en la botella. El cotnari proviene de la parte de Moldavia que los zares cedieron a Rumanía, y de la que los soviéticos se anexionaron más tarde la mitad septentrional. A raíz de esta anexión, la plantación se intensificó en el sur.
HISTORIA
En el siglo VII a.C., antes de que los griegos estableciesen sus colonias en el mar Negro, ya se cultivaba la viña en la región de Dobrudja. Las viñas más antiguas se asentaban en los contrafuertes de los Cárpatos. Las pendientes de las montañas favorecen los microclimas influidos por los bosques y las masas de agua del Danubio y el mar Negro.
Después de la cultura griega, la cultura latina del vino llegó a la antigua Dacia con las legiones de Trajano y, a lo largo de la historia, se sumaron las misiones religiosas bizantinas y las emigraciones eslavas, judías, gitanas, islámicas, magiares y germánicas (sobre todo en Transilvania). Una incalculable riqueza racial e intelectual para un pueblo. Sólo así se puede explicar la variada oferta vinícola de Rumania, su riqueza ampelográfica y sus tradiciones que marcan mil estilos distintos de vinos.
La Edad Media supuso un fuerte impulso para la viticultura. Algunos viñedos de Cotnari ganaron la fama en los siglos XIV y XV que aún mantienen hoy en día. Al contrario que en otras zonas (como en España) donde la expansión árabe limitó momentáneamente su cultivo, las particulares características del imperio Otomano (siglos XV-XX) permitieron que la viticultura rumana se siguiera practicando de forma ininterrumpida hasta la actualidad.
La llegada de la filoxera (1880-1884) supuso la destrucción del 60% de las viñas y, en algunas zonas, de las plantaciones enteras. Hasta entonces las variedades autóctonas predominaron en los viñedos. Esta enfermedad supuso un trauma (similar al de otras muchas regiones productoras del mundo) del que no se recuperó completamente hasta el fin de la segunda guerra mundial, cuando empezaron a importarse grandes cantidades de cepas de variedades nobles injertadas en pies americanos.
Durante la época comunista, (desde 1960 hasta 1989 con la dictadura de Ceaucescu) y en el marco de una economía colectivizada, se crearon grandes y modernos complejos, que utilizaban los últimos "adelantos de los años 60" (grandes depósitos de cemento, acero inoxidable, etc.), intentando convertir el país en una fábrica de vinos, con vistas a la exportación al resto de países del Este. De este modo, Rumania alcanzó un cierto reconocimiento internacional como productor de vinos de calidad.
Durante este periodo, el cultivo de la viña fue creciendo hasta representar algo más de un 2% de la superficie cultivable de todo el país. El gobierno rumano implantó el llamado “Plan de sistematización de las zonas rurales y urbanas” que provocó la destrucción de numerosos pueblos y la reubicación de sus habitantes en “ciudades agrarias” causando graves desajustes en la agricultura del país.
Este y otros muchos planes de desarrollo consiguieron que durante la década de los 80 Rumania fuera el país europeo con mayor deuda externa. Las duras medidas económicas impuestas por el régimen se tradujeron en carestías de todo tipo en el interior del país. El descontento de los rumanos (junto con otros muchos factores) acabo estallando en 1989 (el año de la revolución) provocando la caída de un régimen que dejaba al país hundido en una profunda crisis.
El declive, tanto técnico como económico, afectó también a la viticultura y la superficie destinada al cultivo de la viña y, por ende, la producción vinícola rumana ha descendido progresivamente desde el año 1989. Actualmente, la superficie cultivada de viña no llega a ese 2%, produciendo en su mayoría vinos blancos ya que los vinos tintos representan un porcentaje muy pequeño dentro de la producción total. Aunque en los últimos años se han realizado importantes mejoras para intentar superar el desfase tecnológico, en general los vinos rumanos presentan una calidad muy desigual y aún necesitan mejorar en lo que se refiere a técnicas de elaboración y tratamiento en bodega.
Por el contrario, tienen a su favor unos costes de producción mucho más bajos que en el resto de Europa y, sobre todo, la utilización de uvas de gran calidad. De esta forma hoy día se intenta recuperar la viejas tradiciones y, al mismo tiempo, incorporarse al siglo XXI con costosas inversiones que necesitan esfuerzo y tiempo. Sin duda alguna en este país, como en el resto del arco ex comunista, la viticultura y producción de vinos ha sufrido muchos acontecimientos históricos y, a pesar de todo, tiene un futuro prometedor y diferente.
CLASIFICACIÓN Y TIPOS DE VINOS
Se producen unos 402 vinos diferentes, que se agrupan del siguiente modo: 11 tipos de vinos de mesa normales, 42 tipos de calidad superior, 118 tipos de calidad superior y denominación de origen y 231 tipos de calidad superior, denominación de origen y grado de calidad.
Respecto a las crianzas, se establece lo siguiente para los vinos con denominación de origen:
- Vinos blancos: entre uno y dos años de edad.
- Vinos tintos: entre dos y tres años, aunque un año y medio ha de estar en barricas de roble.
Se produce vino seco (sec), semiseco (demisec), semidulce (demiduce), vino de postre (desert) y vino espumoso (spumant), distinguiéndose entre:
- Vinos de calidad superior (VS)
- Vinos de calidad superior con denominación de origen (DOC).
- Vinos de calidad superior con denominación de origen y grados de calidad (DOCC), que pueden ser:
Con uvas recolectadas en su estado óptimo de maduración (DOCC-III o DOCC - CMD)
Con uvas sobre maduras o vendimias tardías (DOCC-II o DOC-CT);
Con uvas afectadas por la podredumbre noble (DOCC-I o DOCC-CIB).
VARIEDADES DE UVA CULTIVADAS
El 70% del consumo en Rumanía corresponde a vino blanco, elaborado generalmente con variedades autóctonas. La Fetească Albă(famosa en Hungría como Leányka) y la Fetească Regală (un cruce entre la Grasa de Cotnari y la Fetească Albă realizado en la década de 1930) son las más plantadas y, junto con la Tămâioasă Românească, las favoritas para el futuro, aunque la Welschriesling y la Aligoté también son habituales igual que la Merlot.
La continuidad en el cultivo desde la antigüedad y la larga tradición de la viticultura rumana ha permitido la supervivencia de estas variedades autóctonas y que probablemente darán que hablar en un futuro no muy lejano. Además el clima ha permitido también la perfecta aclimatación de variedades foráneas (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon blanc, etc.) con las que se producen vinos de bastante calidad (destacando entre ellos los Pinot).
Variedades Blancas
- Feteasca Alba: También conocida como: Fetisoara, Poama Pasareasca (Uva de los pájaros), Pasareasca Alba (Blanca de los pájaros), Poama Fetei Alba (Uva blanca de Fetesti). Es una variedad blanca conocida desde hace siglos en Moldavia y Transilvania. Muy extendida en Rumania, la encontramos también en los países vecinos (Moldavia, Bulgaria, Hungría, Eslovaquia, Ucrania y Rusia).
De baya pequeña y maduración temprana, con un buen equilibrio entre el azúcar y la acidez (que se pierde en las zonas cálidas del sur del país). Vigorosa y con un ciclo vegetativo corto, está perfectamente adaptada a las zonas del norte del país y las zonas frías, aunque por su precocidad sea sensible a las heladas. Permite la elaboración de vinos secos o semi secos. Produce vinos alcohólicos con aromas a albaricoque que envejecen bien. Vinificada en solitario produce los llamados vinos perlados de Tîrnave y mezclada con otras variedades (Grassa, Francusa o Tamâioasa) es la base de los vinos de Cotnari.
- Grassa de Cotnari: También conocida como Grassa (Gorda), Poama Grassa (Uva gorda), Grasa Mare (Gran gorda), Grasa Mica (pequeña gorda). Variedad blanca de color amarillo dorado con un alto contenido en ácidos y glicerina. Produce vinos finos y de bouquet particular que ha dado a los viñedos de Cotnari (en Moldavia) la fama de producir los mejores vinos de Rumania. Parece ser que esta variedad, una de las joyas de la enología rumana, está emparentada con la Furmint que en Hungría da vinos excelentes, con la que presenta un notable parecido presentando incluso algunas características idénticas.
La baya es de tamaño pequeño-mediano, de color pálido y maduración mediana (algo tardía en la zona de Cotnari). En ocasiones se vendimian tardíamente para obtener una mayor concentración de azucares. Cepa de vigor mediano y producción mediana, es sensible al mildiu y a la podredumbre gris. Por otro lado permite también el desarrollo de la podredumbre noble produciendo en ese caso vinos de alto contenido alcohólico y características similares a los famosos Tokaji húngaros. Es muy común su vinificación junto a la Feteasca Alba.
- Fetasca Regala: Es la variedad más extendida en Rumania. Originaria de la región de Brasov en Transilvania. Es un híbrido natural de Feteasca Alba y Grassa de Cotnari, cultivado y presentado con el nombre de Feteasca Regala en 1928. De baya mediana, de color amarillo o amarillo-verdoso y de maduración tardía. Fina y aromática recuerda algo al muscat. Es una planta vigorosa, de producción abundante, muy resistente a los inviernos fríos pero sensibles a las heladas de primavera, las enfermedades y la sequía. Produce un vino blanco de calidad debido sus aromas característicos. En la región de Brasov se producen con ella vinos licorosos de buena calidad. Suele combinarse con otras variedades como la Riesling, Muscat Ottonel, Neuburger o Aligoté.
- Galbena de Odobesti: También llamada Galbena, Galbena Grassa, Poama Galbena, Bucium de Poama Galbena, Szarsz Izum, Orangentraube, Galbina, Galbina Batuta, Galbina Rara, Galbina Urita. Variedad blanca de baya mediana, maduración y vendimia tardía. Es una variedad muy vigorosa de grandes rendimientos que da vinos ligeros. Se extendía por el sur de Moldavia y en Valaquia (Dealu Mare). Fue muy utilizada en vinos de mesa con pocas pretensiones pero hoy en día su cultivo está en clara recesión.
- Francusa: Conocida también con los nombres: Frincusa, Tirtara, Vinoasa, Poama Franchie, Poama Mustei, Poama Creata, Mildweisser, Mustoasa de Moldova. Variedad blanca originaria de Moldavia y cultivada en todo el país. Presenta bayas medianas de color amarillo verdoso. Produce vinos con una alta acidez, aromas vegetales y sabor persistente. De vigor mediano, madura tardíamente. La encontramos sobretodo en Cotnari donde se usa, en pequeñas proporciones, como complemento a la Feteasca o Grassa.
- Muscat Ottonel: Variedad superviviente de la invasión de la filoxera cultivada en los climas templados y frescos de Transilvania y Moldavia. Produce vinos, de color amarillo-paja y un sabor típico de moscatel. Los más destacables proceden de la zona de Murfatlar (en Dobroudja) donde se obtienen vinos de postre que destacan por su fuerza aromática. En ocasiones son encabezados con alcohol para permitirles una más larga vida en bodega.
- Tamâioasa Romaneasca: También conocida como Busuioaca de Moldova o Busuioaca de Bohotin. Variedad local muy antigua y muy sensible a las condiciones climáticas que requiere de una buena exposición y otoños cálidos. Adquiere altas concentraciones de azúcar produciendo vinos dulces y semidulces naturales, de color amarillo-dorado, equilibrados, aromáticos y complejos. Los mejores vinos de esta variedad proceden de los Cárpatos Meridionales (la región de Dragasani) y también en Cotnari. Al sur del país, en los viñedos de Pietroasa (Dobroudja), se producen vinos remarcables a partir de uvas procedentes de vendimias tardías con un contenido en azúcares superior a 240-260 g/l. que destacan por su color dorado oscuro, muy oxidado, y que ofrecen un sabor potente y complejo que recuerda a la miel y al melocotón maduro.
- Variedades Importadas: Riesling y Traminers se han adaptado perfectamente en Transilvania, Moldavia y Valaquia. La Sauvignon Blanc es una de las variedades más reconocidas en Rumania y de ella se obtienen interesantes vinos en las zonas de Murfatlar y Dragasani. Los mejores Chardonnay rumanos se obtienen en Dobroudja, especialmente en Murfatlar. Mientras que la variedad Aligoté cultivada en Moldavia y Dobroudja se destina en su mayor parte a vinos de mesa.
Sobre todas ellas destaca la Pinot Gris, que se adaptó perfectamente a las condiciones del país. A partir de esta variedad Rumania produce sorprendentes vinos que respetando el carácter Pinot, ofrecen características completamente distintas de una región a otra. Esta variedad destaca en Transilvania, Dealu Mare y sobre todo en Murfatlar.
Variedades Tintas
- Feteasca Neagra: También llamada Fetiasca Neagra, Poama Fetei Neagra (Uva negra de Fetesti), Coada Rindunicii (Cola de golondrina, por el color de las uvas), Pasarea Neagra (Pájaro negro). Variedad tinta originaria de Rumania. Los mejores vinos de esta variedad se producen al sur del país (en los viñedos de Valea Calugareasca, Urlati, Tohani, Cotesti. Es una cepa vigorosa, resistente a los inviernos fríos y a la sequía aunque sensible a las enfermedades y las heladas primaverales.
La baya es mediana, de color negro-azulado y maduración media. Con ella se producen vinos de calidad, aunque suele combinarse con algo de Cabernet Sauvignon o Babeasca Neagra. Su asociación con Merlot produce normalmente vinos corrientes. Los vinos de Feteasca Neagra evolucionan rápidamente, son de color rubí, redondos, robustos y con aromas a frutos del bosque (algún autor ha descrito su aroma como a medio camino entre Cabernet Franc y Mencía).
- Babeasca Neagra: Cepa difundida especialmente por los viñedos del sur de Moldavia donde destacan los vinos producidos en los viñedos de Nicoresti. Lo más habitual es que se utilice en la elaboración de vinos de mesa jóvenes, de color rojo picota y sabor afrutado.
- Variedades importadas: La variedad tinta de origen foráneo mas extendida en Rumania es la Cabernet Sauvignon que prefiere el clima cálido del sur del país. Se obtienen buenos vinos de esta variedad en Valaquia, Banat y Dobroudja. Le sigue el Merlot que se desarrolla en las colinas del sur de Moldavia y Valaquia. Pero sin duda alguna la variedad mejor adaptada a las características del país es la Pinot Noir con la que se obtienen algunos vinos sorprendentes por su calidad.
REGIONES PRODUCTORAS
Se distinguen ocho regiones vinícolas principales y 50 denominaciones. Sin embargo, las zonas más interesantes son: Vrancea, Cotnari, Tirnave, Dealul Mare (o Dealu Mare), Murfatlar y Llamera del Banat. La feteasca alba es la principal variedad de uva blanca del país, juntamente con las tradiconales grasa, tamiioasa y frincusa, que alternan con la híbrida feteasca regala. Con la variedad babeasca se elaboran vinos tintos, especiados y sabrosos, y con la feteasca negra, vions con buen cuerpo. Se cultivan, además, muscat ottonel, gewurztraminer, aligoté, riesling itálico, rkatsiteli, chardonnay y rulander (pinot gris), así como las tintas cabernet sauvignon, merlot y pinot noir.
- Vrancea: Es la zona vinícola más extensa. Merece la pena visitar esta región de tanta belleza natural, con sus iglesias y monumentos. La Cava de los Príncipes de Odobesti, creada en 1839, tiene una magnifica colección de vinos. Las comarcas más interesantes son Odobesti, Cotesti y Panciu. Se elaboran vinos espumosos y brandies.
- Cotnari: Situada en los contrafuertes de los Cárpatos y con centro en lasi, produce el vino más conocido de Rumania: el blanco cotnari, un vino dulce licoroso que se elabora con vendimias enriquecidas por la Botrytis noble. Se cultivan las variedades grasa, feteasca alba, tamiioasa y frincusa.
- Tirnave: Situada en las montañas del norte, con un viñedo que se extiende en las dos orillas del río Tirnave. El clima es fresco y húmedo debido a la altura y a los ríos. De esta forma la región produce los vinos blancos más frescos y más vivos de Rumania, con bajo contenido en azúcar y con buena acidez. Las variedades cultivadas son riesling itálico y feteasca, para los blancos secos. Se elaboran también vinos semisecos o dulces con sauvingon blanc, muscat ottonel, traminer y rulander.
- Dealul Mare: Esta soleada región, situada en el noreste del país, produce algunos vinos tintos de variedades internacionales, como cabernet sauvignon, pinot noir (una oferta interesante) y merlot, y blancos de riesling itálico, feteasca alba, tamiioasa y muscat ottonel. Su situación le permite obtener tintos aromáticos con suaves taninos. El clima es ideal para el Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot y Pinot Noir.
- Murfatlar: En esta región, que disfruta de un microclima suavizado por la proximidad del mar Negro, se elaboran algunos de los mejores vinos rumanos: blancos de chardonnay y pinot gris y tintos de cabernet sauvignon y pinot noir. Su especialidad son los vinos de postre de muscat ottonel.
- Llanura de Banat: Situada al oeste de Rumania, en esta zona se producen vinos de mesa blancos y tintos, con una especialidad interesante. El acarca del Banat, vino tinto muy peculiar, elaborado con la variedad kadarka, típica también de Hungría. Se elaboran también vermuts (blanco y rojo) y diferentes brandies.
REGIONES VINÍCOLAS
Rumania está situada en el centro de Europa o la Europa del Este, y limita con Ucrania y Moldavia en el noreste, Hungría y Serbia en el oeste y Bulgaria al sur. Rumania también tiene una pequeña franja de costa en el mar Negro. Es un país con una zona muy montañosa que cubre todo el centro y la parte oeste, además de numerosos ríos y lagos. El clima es en general de tipo continental templado, con bastantes diferencias climáticas entre las estaciones del año. La orografía es también variada: desde cordilleras montañosas que separan las mesetas a altiplanos en contraste con las grandes llanuras. La influencia de los Cárpatos se hace notar, ya que circundan el país en dirección oeste sobre unos 800 km de largo, y entre los 15 y 20 km de ancho, donde se sitúa Transilvania en forma de fosa tectónica. Las zonas situadas en los altiplanos son Transilvania, Moldavia y Dobrogea, y en las llanuras Banat y Valaquia.
TRANSILVANIA
Está situada en el interior de los Cárpatos, en el noroeste. Los suelos son arenosos y se producen, principalmente, vinos blancos secos y muy equilibrados. Es un altiplano fruto del hundimiento tectónico provocado por la formación de las montañas, que se fue rellenando con materiales del Terciario. Los suelos son en su mayoría arenosos. Es también la región más extensa del país y la más importante desde el punto de vista económico. Estuvo durante varios siglos ligada a Hungría y se incorporó a la actual Rumania en 1920 tras la desaparición del imperio Austro-húngaro al finalizar la 1ª guerra mundial. Sus paisajes van desde el mar de colinas verdes del altiplano interior a los bosques de alta montaña. El clima extremo limita la extensión de sus viñedos. Las viñas se cultivan al sur, en la base de los Cárpatos Meridionales, en las colinas protegidas de los vientos y producen vinos blancos equilibrados, secos y de buena calidad.
- Tarnave: Es la región situada al norte de la ciudad de Sibiu, entre los ríos Tarnave-Mica y Tarnave-Mare. Es de clima frío y bastante húmedo debido a la acción de dichos ríos. Entre los vinos destacan los elaborados con la variedad local Perla, además de los Traminer. El viñedo es una mezcla de las variedades locales y foráneas; los más importantes son Blas, Jidvei, Medias, Tarnaveni, Zagar y Valea Nirajului.
- Alba Iulia-Aiud: Está situada al oeste de Tarnave, y los viñedos se localizan en las laderas de las colinas de Mures. Desta-can los vinos elaborados a base de las uvas Muscat y Sauvignon Blanc. Los viñedos de Alba son Alba Iulia e Ighiu, y los de Aiud son Aiud, Turda y Triteni.
- Bistrita-Nasaud: Se sitúa al norte de la región y al sur de Maramures. Destacan los vinos elaborados en Lechinta, de las uvas Traminers. Los viñedos de Lechinta son Lechinta, Traca, Brisita y Batos, y los de Sebes-Apold.
MOLDAVIA
Está situada al noreste del país, junto a las fronteras de Ucrania y de la República de Moldavia. Antigua Besarabia y ex-República Socialista Soviética de Moldavia) con la que forma un continuo geográfico (de hecho la frontera que divide Moldavia en dos se creó después de la 2ª guerra mundial). Se trata de un altiplano montañoso situado en la zona norte que limita con los Cárpatos al oeste y se abre al mar Negro sobre las llanuras del sur. Los vinos moldavos (de ambos lados de la frontera) tienen reconocida fama. Cotnari es la zona de Moldavia donde se producen los mejores vinos licorosos del país y uno de los reinos indiscutibles de los vinos rumanos de calidad. Su clima, templado y húmedo, favorece la acumulación de azúcares y la aparición de la podredumbre noble. Las vendimias tardías pueden alargarse hasta bien entrado el mes de noviembre. La variedad más utilizada y que le ha dado fama es, como su nombre indica, la Grassa de Cotnari, aunque también se utilizan la Tamâioasa, Francusa, y Feteasca Alba.
- Cotnari (la perla de Moldavia): Es una de las regiones más bellas del país y produce los blancos licorosos de mayor fama y calidad, a base de la cepa local Grasa más Tamaioasa, Francusa y Feteasca Alba. Los viñedos de Cotnari están situados en las colinas del noroeste de Jassy. El clima es templado y muy húmedo, lo que favorece la acción de la botritis, y las vendimias llegan a finales de noviembre. En estos viñedos están las bodegas más antiguas. Los viñedos de Cotnari existen hace 2.500 años. Su origen se sitúa en la fortaleza de Draco-Traciana, que se encuentra en la colina Catalina. En el interior de esta fortaleza existían unas 5 ha de viña y el vino que se producía era de uso exclusivo de los jefes de la época. Este es el único viñedo de toda Rumania que sigue con las variedades originales y, aunque fueron injertadas después de la filoxera, siguen siendo las mismas cepas. Destaca el Cháteau Cornari. Los viñedos del Cotnari son Cotnari, Harlau, Cucuteni y Frumusica.
- Dealurae Moldovei: Esta región tiene orientación norte-sur. En la parte norte, en Jassy, se producen los vinos tintos, y en el sur, en Husi, los blancos.
- Odobesti-Panciu-Nicoresti: Está situada muy cerca de la ciudad de Focsani, donde se producen tanto vinos tintos como blancos. En los blancos domina la variedad Galbena de Odobesti, vino que se remonta a finales del siglo XVIII. Hay tres viñedos independientes: Hlipiceni, Plugari y Probota.
MUNTENIA Y OLTENIA
Muntenia, cuyo nombre significa "país de montes", está situada en la parte este. Oltenia recibe el nombre del río Olt, y se sitúa al oeste. Ambas regiones forman la gran plana o llanura de Valaquia, y se extienden desde la parte baja del río Danubio, hasta las faldas de los Cárpatos meridionales o Alpes de Transilvania. Los suelos son de tipo aluviales y arcillosos, y no llegan a superar los 200 m de altitud.
- Dealu Mare "las grandes colinas": Es una de las regiones más importantes del país, y se extiende sobre unos 400 km2, en la pendiente sur de las montañas cercanas a los Cárpatos. De clima templado, dominan los vinos tintos de Cabemet, Merlot y Pinot Noir. Un viñedo muy importante es el de Pietroasele, que está situado al este de la región, con suelos muy rocosos y calcáreos, en los que se producen estupendos vinos blancos de las cepas Tamaioasa y Grasa. Los viñedos son Boldesti, Valea Calugareasca, Urlati-Ceptura, Thoani, Cricov, Breaza, Pietrosa, Merei y Zoresti, más las dos zonas independientes de Bucsani y Costesti.
- Dragasani: Los vinos que se producen en esta región son principalmente tintos de las cepas Feteasca Neagra y Ca- bernet Sauvignon. Los viñedos son Dragasani, Amaraste, Cerna e Iancu Jianu.
- Arges-Stefanesti: Esta región se sitúa junto al valle de Arges, cercana a Pitesti, donde los dos centros vinícolas más impor-tantes y antiguos están situados en Valea Mare y Stefanesti. Se producen, principalmente, vinos blancos de las cepas Riesling Itálico, Sauvignon Blanc, Feteasca Regala y Muscat. Los viñedos son Stefanesti, Topoloveni y Valea Mare.
- Segarcea: Se sitúa al sur de Craiova, y se producen interesantes vinos tintos de las cepas Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot y Feteasca Neagra, sobre todo en las viñedos de Droveta-Turnu y Severin-Corcova. Otros viñedos de la región son. En las laderas de Buzau: Cernatesti, Zarnesti, Rámnicu y Sarat. En Sámburesti: Sámburesti y Dobroteasa.
COLINAS DE DOBROGEA
Se sitúan en la franja costera del mar Negro y al sur del delta del Danubio. Es una zona de laderas, con colinas de suelos calcáreos en las partes altas y de aluviales y arenosos en las bajas.
- Murfatlar: Es una de las regiones más importantes de Rumania, situada a unos 10 km del mar Negro. Contempla una plantación de unas 2.000 ha, expuestas al sol y a un clima soleado y fresco. Entre los vinos producidos destacan los licorosos de botritis elaborados con Chardonnay y Pinot Gris, y los vinos de postre de las variedades locales Tamaioasa Romaneasca y Muscat Ottonel. Los tintos son muy equilibrados y se producen de las variedades Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot y Pinot Noir. Los viñedos son Murfatlar, Megdigia y Cernadova; en el viñedo de Pietroasa destacan los blancos de las uvas Tamaioasa y Gras, plantadas sobre suelos muy calcáreos y de pizarras.
Los nombres que acompañan (orígenes) al Murfatlar son Basarabi, Siminoc, Valu Román, Poarta Alba, Biserica Veche, Ciocárlia, Piatra Rosie, Castelo y Cocosu. Los nombres de los viñedos que también pueden acompañar al Murfatlar son Medgidia, Cernavoda y Nazarcea.
- Sarica-Niculitel y Babadag: Esta región está situada en la parte norte de Dobrogea, cerca del delta del Danubio. Es una región con suelos muy variados, entre arenas y piedras del río, donde se producen vinos interesantes en las laderas del macizo de Hcrcynics. Los cinco viñedos independientes son Adamclisi, Mangalia, Chirmogeni, Hársova y Daeni.
Budai Zöld
Regions: Budai Zöld is grown in Etyek–Buda wine region,
and mostly in Badacsony wine region (Mount Badacsony) adjacent to Kéknyelű to
help the pollination of Kéknyelű.
Character: Simple, easy drinking
wine with fresh, sometimes harsh acidity, green apple flavours and vegetal
character.
Story: Budapest used to
be a capital with significant vineyards – as it is Wien still today –, however
the city took over. The name literally means ‘the green of Buda’ referring to
the origin of the grape. Buda used to be the capital of Hungary, now it is part
of Budapest. Some vines can still be discovered in Buda gardens to cherish the
tradition.
Chardonnay
Regions: The world’s second most grown white grape is
popular in Hungary as well. It is mostly grown in the northern Etyek–Buda wine
region – partially for producing méthode traditionelle sparkling wine by Törley
and other producers –, and also typical in Eger region, which is often referred
to as the ‘Hungarian Burgundy’.
Character: The well
known fruity chardonnay (apple, pear, citrus flavours, tropical fruits) has
beautiful examples in Hungary, both barrel aged and in reductive style.
Cserszegi Fűszeres
Regions: The indigenous Hungarian grape can be found all
over the country except Tokaj, and very popular among wine drinkers. Kunság,
Hajós–Baja – the two less appreciated wine regions produce a lot of the grape,
but we can find nice examples around lake Balaton as well.
Character: Aromatic spicy, muscat
type grape with fairly high acidity. Not suitable for longer aging. The
educated wine connoisseurs often despise the variety saying that it is not
sophisticated, but it can be elegant, sleek and charming if made carefully.
Story: The
variety was created by Károly Bakonyi, who crossed Irsai Oliver and Red
Traminer. The word ‘cserszegi’ refers to the village on the north-west of Lake
Balaton, where Károly Bakonyi lived. ‘Fűszeres’ means spicy, it refers to the
spicy character of the grape.
Ezerjó
Regions: It is almost totally restricted to one wine
region, named Mór. The small region is proud of the grape and its winemakers
produce more and more remarkable wines from this lesser known and lesser
respected grape.
Character: Pale, greenish colour.
Restrained on the nose, slightly aromatic. Light body, easy drinking, juicy
with high acidity.
Story: Literally Ezerjó means ‘Thousand Good’, and it
used to be one of the most common varieties in Hungary, well known throughout
the Carpathian Basin.
Furmint
Regions: It is believed to be or hoped to be the flagship
of Hungary. Furmint is one of the few grapes allowed to use under the
appellation of Tokaj, it is the main grape of aszú wines along with Hárslevelű.
Tokaj winemakers answered with stunning dry Furmint wines to the decrease of
sweet wine consumption. Furmint is grown all over Hungary, marvellous Furmint
wines are made in Somló, Badacsony, Balatonfüred–Csopak, Mátra and Eger.
Nowadays there is a dispute whether Furmint has a potential of long aging or
does not.
Character: It ripens late and has a nose of fresh fruits, often compared to ripe pear. Its significant acidity and alcohol produce characterful wines sometimes with a touch of tartness.
Character: It ripens late and has a nose of fresh fruits, often compared to ripe pear. Its significant acidity and alcohol produce characterful wines sometimes with a touch of tartness.
Story: Furmint
originates from Tokaj, and there are several evidences to prove that, one of
them is the mention of the variety as early as 1611 in a document from
Erdőbénye, Tokaj region.
Generosa
Regions: Because of its great characteristics: its
resistance to diseases and severe weather conditions, plus its lovely flavours
its popularity keeps increasing. At the moment (written in 2017) Hungary has
400 hectares planted with Generosa. Wine regions: Kunság, Hajós–Baja and Mór.
Character: Generosa resist winter,
its buds survive severe frost. It has relatively high yield, and resistant to
rot and powdery mildew. Its wine has aromas of that of the flower of the vine,
juicy, grapey with vivid, crispy acidity. Frittmann Generosa is a great
example.
Story: The
Portugese Generosa is a cross between Fernao Pires and Sultana Moscata, and
planted in less than 1 hectare. The Hungarian Generosa is a cross as well, but
between Ezerjó (important in Mór and Kunság wine regions) and Piros Tramini
(Savagnin Rose). This pink-berried cross was obtained in 1951 by Bíró Károly in
Hungary, tested since 1976 by Edit Hajdú at the Kecskemét viticulture research
centre, and finally christened Generosa in 2004.
Hárslevelű
Region: Hárslevelű is the other main grape variety in
Tokaj besides Furmint, however it is widely planted all over the country, it
can be found even in the southern Villány. Late to ripen, like Furmint, but
with looser bunches. It has a thicker grape skin meaning that in dry vintages
the botrytis attack it more slowly.
Character: Its wine is more
aromatic than Furmint with delicate linden honey aromas, sometimes elderflower.
Elegant, subtle wine can be made from Hárslevelű with refined acidity, creamy
texture and a touch of spices.
Story: Its name
is literally ‘linden leaf’ and comes from the shape of the leaf which resembles
that of the tree. According to some recent DNA researches Furmint is the parent
of Hárslevelű.
Irsai Olivér
Character: Ripening early, it gives
a very aromatic, intense wine with grapey aromas, delicate spices. Easy
drinking wine with medium-low acidity and alcohol, almost always vinified
reductively for instant consumption.
Story: Irsai
Olivér is a crossing between Pozsonyi Fehér and Csabagyöngye created by Pál
Kocsis in 1930. There are several legends of the naming of the grape, one says
that Kocsis was a passionate gambler and he gave away the name of the crossing
due to his massive debt, but the truth is likely to be much simpler: Irsai
Olivér was of the son of a respected wine merchant friend of Kocsis. The
grandson of Irsi Olivér is a university student now in Szeged.
Juhfark
Regions: Juhfark is grown almost exclusively in the small
volcanic hill of Somló, a small amount in Balatonfüred.
Character: Rather neutral,
restrained nose with some flowers and green apples. High, sometimes brutal
acidity. It is really difficult to tame this variety, but there are amazing
examples of it in history! If you are not afraid of straightforward acidity,
take a chance on it. In Somló, the minerality paired with high acidity results
some outstanding wines with great aging potential.
Story: Juhfark
takes its name from the sheep’s tail, as the long cylindrical shape of the
bunches resemble the sheep’s tail. It is often cited as the ‘wines of the
wedding-night’, since it was believed to help when a couple had been longing
for a son.
Regions: Exclusively grown in Tokaj, in fact it is an
experimental strain previously known as Tarcal 10 that is a cross between
Hárslevelű and Bouvier. It ripens at a similar time to Zéta, but produces lower
yields. Kabar has a good tendency to accumulate sugar, botrytises well to
become an aszú grape, but because of its thicker skin the aszú berries are less
vulnerable to rainy periods.
Character: Kabar gives wines with
some linden blossom on the nose and high acidity on the palate.
Story: Kabar is a
new variety (the crossing was made in 1967 in Tarcal research centre) allowed
in the Tokaj wine region since 2006. Kabar
represents only 1 percentage of Tokaj plantations.
Kéknyelű
Regions: This grape is exclusively
grown in Badacsony wine region. Planting alternate rows with a variety such as
Budai Zöld encourages more consistent pollination.
Character: In good vintages it gives
elegant wine with creamy structure and subtle, fine acidity. Rare grape variety
that is capable of giving exceptionally high quality wines.
Story: Kéknyelű is
quite likely of Hungarian origin. Very popular among the winemakers, though it
is hard to cultivate. It ripens relatively late, therefore it needs protection
from the hungry games living in the forests of Badacsony and Szent György
mountain. “Kéknyelű, meaning ‘blue stalk’ and referring to the slightly
blue tint of the petiole, is an old variety probably originating from the
Badacsony region in western Hungary. The alleged synonymy between Kéknyelű and
the Italian Picolit mentioned in the Vitis International Variety Catalogue has
been disproved by DNA profiling.”Excerpt From: Robinson, Jancis; Harding,
Julia; Vouillamoz, Jose. “Wine Grapes (9780062325518).” iBooks.
Királyleányka
Regions: The grape is originally from Tranyslvania, the
formerly Hungarian western part of Romania. Now it is often referred to as
Hungarian indigenous grape variety. It is grown all over Hungary, typically in
Mátra, Ászár–Neszmély, Eger, Mór, Pannonhalma, South Balaton and Pécs wine
regions. It’s often used in blends, for exapmle in the popular white blend of
Eger wine regon, Egri Csillag.
Character: The wine made of
Királyleányka has light yellow colour with greenish taint. It is slightly
aromatic, delicate. It has a significant, but pleasant acidity. Its fresh
acidity makes it a good blending partner for other, softer aromatic varieties.
On the nose and palate it is full of fresh fruits and flowers. The lightly
perfumed, grapey, light wine is a popular summer party wine nowadays.
Story: The world
Királyleányka literally means little princess. Királyleányka is said to be a
natural hybrid of Leányka and Kövérszőlő – this latest is one of the typical
grapes of Tokaj wine region. The grape was introduced in Hungary in the 1970s.
It was said to be identical with Fetească Regală, however comparison of their
DNA profiles shows that Királyleányka and Fetească Regală from Romania are
distinct varieties (Wine Grapes).
Muscat
Ottonel / Ottonel Muskotály
Region: In Hungary it is planted
almost all over the country (except from Somló and Sopron), but mostly in
Mátra, Eger, Kunság, Balaton.
Character: Wines of Muscat Ottonel are
meant for early consumption. When young, it is fresh, aromatic with notes and
flavours of the ripened grape berry and rose petals. Most Muscat Ottonel wines
are not very complex, the acidity is medium or rather low, but pleasant on the
nose and easy to drink.
Story: “Muscat
Ottonel is a seedling obtained in Angers in the Val de Loire, France, by the
vine breeder Jean-Pierre Vibert in 1839, and later released in 1852 by his
chief gardener, Robert. It was named in honour of a certain H Ottonel. Vibert
did not keep track of the parents, and the seedling was thought to be a
CHASSELAS × Muscat de Saumur cross (Galet 2000) until DNA profiling at INRA
(Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique) in Montpellier, southern
France, corrected this to a Chasselas × Muscat d’Eisenstadt cross. ”Excerpt
From: Robinson, Jancis; Harding, Julia; Vouillamoz, Jose. “Wine Grapes (9780062325518).” iBooks.
Olaszrizling
(Welschriesling)
Region: It is grown all over Hungary,
in fact the most widely planted grape in the country, and popular in the whole
Carpathian basin.
Character: It ripens rather late, in good
vintages even shrivels. When young, there are flowers on the nose, on the
palate full of flavours and there is a little bitter almond note in its
aftertaste. It has a pleasant, refreshing acidity. Olaszrizling is capable of
long barrel aging.
Story: It was and is
mistaken for Rhine Riesling, though it is a completely different grape. Its
synonyms include the most common Welschriesling (Austria, Germany), Graševina
in Croatia, Laški Rizling in Slovenia. It is quite likely to originate from the
Danube basin, though there are numerous other hypotheses. Though it is the most
widely planted grape of Hungary, it did not have a good reputation for a long
time and while nowadays wonderful examples are easy to find in Hungary both in
fresh and aged style.
Rózsakő
Region: This grape is exclusively
grown in Badacsony wine region.
Character: The skin is rather thick
therefore less sensitive than Kéknyelű, and more productive. It resembles
Kéknyelű in its characteristics and can also give high quality wines.
Story: A cross
between Kéknyelű and Budai Zöld develoved by Dr. Ferenc Király in Badacsony in
1957 – a most logical decision to cross these two grapes, since they are often
planted adjacent to each other to improve pollination. The name literally means
‘Rose Stone’ and given after Róza Szegedi, a beautiful and intelligent woman
who is known as the eternal love of the Hungarian poet Sándor Kisfaludy. The
poet and Róza used to sit on a heart shaped basalt rock on Badacsony mountain
enjoying the spectacular view of Lake Balaton. The stone is named after Róza,
the grape is named after the stone.
Rizlingszilváni
Region: Apart from Hungary, it is
widely planted mostly in Germany and New Zealand, though the overall quantity
of this grape is less and less. It used to be the most widely planted grape in
the United Kingdom before sparkling wine became so immensely popular. Even
found in Japan. In Hungary Mátra, Eger, Kunság and Balaton are the main
vineyards.
Character: It ripens early, gives
high yield, but due to its thin skin it is rather sensitive. It gives slightly
aromatic, fresh and light wine with subtle acidity to be consumed young.
Story: Riesling
Sylvaner or Müller Thurgau are much more widely used synonyms. “A
RIESLING × Madeleine Royale cross developed in 1882 by Swiss vine breeder
Hermann Müller (born in the canton of Thurgau, hence the name), who was working
at the Geisenheim research centre in the Rheingau, Germany, at the time. This
variety was originally recorded as a RIESLING × SILVANER cross by its breeder,
Hermann Müller, which explains the erroneous synonyms Riesling × Silvaner and
Rivaner still in use today. It was later named Müller-Thurgau by a German grape
expert in honour of the breeder. ”Excerpt From: Robinson, Jancis; Harding,
Julia; Vouillamoz, Jose. “Wine Grapes (9780062325518).” iBooks.
Sauvignon
Blanc
Region: It’s one of the most planted grape around the
world, the third most planted white grape in France. In Hungary almost 1000
hectares are grown all over the country except from Somló (even in Tokaj
region, though it is not official there.) The most plantations are in Mátra
region, the second is Eger region, then the third is Etyek–Buda wine region
with its limestone – the best for Sauvignon Blanc.
Story: Instead
of the common belief that Sauvignon Blanc comes from Bordeaux, it is more
likely to have originated from the Val de Loire in France. However surprising
it is, Sauvignon Blanc spontaneously crossed with Cabernet Franc in Bordeaux
and produced Cabernet Sauvignon – which is so the half blood child of a white
and a red top grape variety. In Hungary Sauvignon Blanc has been an official
grape since only 1982.
Szürkebarát
Region: Szürkebarát is grown on more than 1500 hectares in
Hungary, mostly in Mátra wine region and around lake Balaton – ont he north of
Balaton there are beautiful wines made of Szürkebarát grown on volcanic soil.
Character: Just like all over the
world, also in Hungary you will find pinkish and white wines made of the
variety. Since the berry has a pink colour, longer maceration can resulte a
pale pink wine. It is worth reducing yield, because it can give full bodied,
aromatic, rich wines. The acidity is medium or even lower. It likes volcanic
soil and tends to be rich, oily with a nose like perfume. It often has some
residual sugar.
Story: „Legend
has it that in 1375 the emperor Charles IV brought Pinot Gris from France to
Hungary, where Cistercian monks planted it on the Badacsony hills near Lake
Balaton. This early introduction supposedly explains why Pinot Gris in Hungary
is called Szürkebarát, meaning ‘grey monk’. In 1568, the theory continues,
Pinot Gris was brought back from Hungary to Kientzheim in the French region of
Alsace by Lazarus von Schwendi (Graff-Höfgen 2007), a general who took
possession of the Hungarian city of Tokay in the reign of Charles-Quint and who
owned a castle in Kientzheim, north west of Colmar. This also supposedly
explains why Pinot Gris is called Tokay in Alsace, a synonym first cited in
1750 in a manuscript at Domaine Weinbach in Alsace (Krämer 2006). However,
there is no historical evidence to document these hypotheses, and it is more
likely that Pinot Gris, often used to make sweet wines in Alsace, was
intentionally given the name Tokay to benefit from the fame already achieved
throughout Europe by the Tokaji wines from Hungary, which were and still are
mainly made from Furmint and Hárslevelű, two local varieties that are unrelated
to Pinot Gris. Excerpt From: Robinson, Jancis; Harding, Julia;
Vouillamoz, Jose. “Wine Grapes (9780062325518).” iBooks.
Vulcanus
Region: This grape is exclusively grown in Badacsony
wine region.
Character: It retains the
complexitiy and richness of Szürkebarát which pairs with the fine acidity of
Budai Zöld. Fairly resistant to diseases and able to transfer the terroir
characteristics of Badacsony.
Story: It is a
cross between Szürkebarát (Pinot Grigio) and Budai Zöld develoved by Dr. Ferenc
Király in Badacsony in 1957. The name refers to the volcanic origin of the
mountains of Badacsony wine region.
Zeusz
Character: Zeus has quite high
yields, and it gives a white wine with relatively high acidity – thanks to one
of the parents, the Ezerjó. If harvested late, amazing dessert wines can be
made of Zeus. Moderately susceptible to botrytis bunch rot and some tolerance
of cold winter temperatures.
Story: It is crossing
between Ezerjó and Bouvier, introduced by Ferenc Király at the University of
Pécs, Hungary in 1951. Its other name is Badacsony 10 (Zengő, another crossing
made by him is called Badacsony 8, and Zenit is also a Ferenc Király crossing,
so he seem to like the letter Z…)
Cabernet Franc
Character: Genetically
the father of Cabernet Sauvignon, but softer, lighter, crispier. When fully
ripened, it can develop very elegant, deep fruity aromas. In Hungary it is
almost always aged in barrel, usually in new barrique to make a complex,
concentrated wine with long finish and considerable ageing potential.
Cabernet Sauvignon
Regions: The king of Bordeaux – and the world’s most
planted black grape – is grown all over Hungary, even if it does not ripen
fully in some northern regions.
Kadarka
Regions: Kadarka is grown almost all over the country. It
has significant vineyards in the Great Hungarian Plain, where Kunság, Csongrád
and Hajós–Baja wine regions are situated. Kadarka is most important in
Szekszárd and Eger, the two wine regions where the famous blend, Bikavér
(Bull’s Blood) is made, and Kadarka is usually one component of the blend.
Total plantings of Kadarka account for less than 700 hectares.
Character: It is really hard to
cultivate Kadarka. Late ripening, sensitive, its thin skin can be affected with
harmful and noble rot. The colour is medium deep ruby. On the nose rich, spicy
and elegant – if in good hands. On the palate juicy, spicy, medium bodied with
good acidity and low tannins. Usually consumed young, within 1–3 years, but
with properly restricted yield and careful vinification Kadarka can be aged for
a long time – as it is proved by some vertical tastings carried on in Szekszárd
and other wine regions.
Story: “Kadarka
is said to have been introduced to Hungary from the Balkans, either by
Serbians, which fits with Kadarka being the Slavic name for Scutari, a lake
(also known as Skadar) between Montenegro and Albania, and with the fact that
the variety was once cultivated under the synonym Skadarka in Croatia and
Serbia (Levadoux 1956; Galet 2000; Rohály et al. 2003), or by Turks, hence its
synonym Törökszőlő (‘Turkish grape’). It is conceivable that it made its way to
Hungary via Bulgaria, where it is still widely planted under the synonym Gamza,
and where it is considered to be indigenous. It is also said to be “be
indigenous to the region of Miniş near Arad in western Romania, where the first
sweet Aszú-style red wine was made from shrivelled Cadarcă grapes in 1744
(Dejeu 2004). The exact origin of Kadarka remains unknown but it lies somewhere
within the Balkan-Pannonian area.” Excerpt From: Robinson, Jancis;
Harding, Julia; Vouillamoz, Jose. “Wine Grapes (9780062325518).” iBooks.
Kékfrankos/Blaufränkisch
Regions: Hungary has over 8000 hectares of Kékfrankos,
which makes it the most widely planted black grape of Hungary. In Austria
Blaufränkisch is the second behind Zweigelt with 2640 hectares. Germany has a
little bit more than 1700 hectares (and known as Lemberger or Limberger).
Kékfrankos is grown in most of the Hungarian wine regions, it is probably the
most famous in Sopron region (neighbouring Austria), and in the two Bikavér
Bull’s Blood) producing regions: Eger and Szekszárd. In Villány Kékfrankos is
also cultivated with great care and believed to have potential. South Balaton,
Kunság and Hajós–Baja also produces significant amount and quality.
Character: Dark-skinned, dark-fruited
Austro-Hungarian variety. Vigorous, early budding and late ripening, thus
needing a relatively warm climate. It is susceptible to downy and powdery
mildews. Its wine is ritch in fruits and acidity. Kékfrankos can give elegant
wines with long ageing potential.
Story: “From the Middle Ages onwards, the name
Fränkisch was given to several high-quality varieties, indicating their
superiority over the inferior Heunisch varieties. One of these high-quality
varieties might have been Blaufränkisch, whose name did not appear until 1862
at a grape-variety exhibition in Wien (Vienna; Aeberhard 2005) and was
officially adopted by the international ampelographic commission in Colmar,
France, in 1875. It was later mentioned in Germany under the synonyms Lemberger
(1877) and Limberger (end of the nineteenth century), both deriving from the
Austrian locations from which the variety was exported to Germany: Lemberg in
the Steiermark (Styria) and Limburg in Maissau (Niederösterreich/Lower
Austria). In Hungary, the variety was first mentioned in 1890 under the name
Kékfrankos, the literal translation of Blaufränkisch.”
Excerpt From: Robinson, Jancis; Harding, Julia;
Vouillamoz, Jose. “Wine Grapes (9780062325518).” iBooks.
Sopron wine
region has more than 1100 hectares of Kékfrankos, and this is the largest Kékfrankos
plantation in the world. Sopron, this west Hungarian city is also known as the
Capital of Kékfrankos, and it even has its own currency named after Kékfrankos!
Read the whole story of Sopron Kékfrankos currency and the legend of Kékfrankos
Portugieser
Read the whole story of Sopron Kékfrankos currency and the legend of Kékfrankos
Portugieser
Regions: In Hungary this grape variety is restricted to
Villány wine region, rarely made elsewhere, if it is, in Eger and Kunság.
Portugieser is grown in other countries in Central Europe: in Germany (more
than 4000 hectars), in Austria (more than 2000 hectars), in Hungary (more than
1000 hectars, Croatia, Czech Republic, Slovakia, Portugal, France.
Character: This productive grape
ripens early and gives ruby red, fruity, velvety, easy to drink wines with
sufficient acidity. Portugieser is to be consumed when fresh and young, it
cannot be kept for long time.
Story: The
grape variety is likely to be of Austrian origin, and despite the name it is
not likely to derive from Portugal. In Hungary Kékoportó was the common name,
but due to European Union regulations this name cannot be used any more,
because it would refer to (mistakenly) the city and wine region of Port
(Oporto) in Portugal.
Romanian wine: 10 essential facts for wine lovers
When it comes to Romanian wine, Jancis Robinson calls my home country ‘the land of hope‘. But wine is not the first thing most people think of when you mention Romania.
Instead, an unholy trinity typically comes to mind: Dracula, Ceaușescu and the gymnast Nadia Comaneci. Oh well.
Romania is a Latin country, with a charming countryside, surrounded by Slavic neighbours in Eastern Europe. It is also one of the largest wine producers in the world with a growing number of high-quality wine makers.
Fact #1: Romanian wine is improving constantly
With the EU accession in 2007, Romania has embarked on a journey to put Romanian wine on the map. Access to pre and post accession funds translated to:
- investments in technology for wine making
- the removal of low-quality vines
- replanting vineyards with better genetic material.
The last ten years has seen the emergence of quality small Romanian wine producers, who have a completely different approach to wine making than the volume producers. As a result, we believe that premium Romanian wine is no longer an oxymoron.
That said, there is still a lot of low-quality, high-volume production. Eurostat reports that in 2015, only one-third of Romanian vineyards were planted with grapes for high-quality wine, which is the lowest in Europe.
This doesn’t surprise me, as the Romanians started improving quite late. But this has created an opportunity to jump directly to the latest technology and modern approaches to winemaking. In the same way, Romania went straight to internet banking, credit cards and mobile phones without the intermediary steps that other countries went through.
Italy and Greece are other examples of countries with a low-quality grape growing percentage (only 50 percent of plantings are dedicated to high-quality production). But, this doesn’t stop them producing memorable wines.
Fact #2: Romania has the perfect geography for wine
The Carpathians Mountains are Romania’s greatest natural gift. A variety of soil compositions form in their foothills, which suit vines well. In addition, the mountains give shelter to the hills and moderate the temperature, just as the Vosges mountains protect Alsace.
Other countries that grow grapes in the foothill of the Carpathians are Hungary (Tokay) and Slovakia (north of Tokay and Malé Karpaty Hills on the Czech border).
Romanian autumns are long and gentle, allowing grapes to ripen slowly and concentrate good flavours. Situated on the same latitude as Bordeaux, the climate is drier and more continental, as the Black Sea does not have the same influence over Romania as the Atlantic Ocean does in Bordeaux. The hilly areas in Moldova and Dobrogea (by the Black Sea) also provide good conditions for grape growing.
The natural potential for the wine industry is clear and well-understood by investors. No wonder the Romanian wine industry is dominated by British, German, Austrian, French and Italian companies.
We fully expect the success of South American wine, Australian wine and New Zealand wine in the last 20-30 years to be repeated with Romanian Wine.
Fact #3: Romanian wine production is the largest in Eastern Europe
OIV statistics place Romania fifth in Europe overall and tenth in the world for the area under vine. Based on 2016 data, with an area under vine of 191k hectares, Romania was similar in size to Chile and Portugal. Estimated wine production that year was 3.3 million hectolitres, making Romania the fifth largest wine producer in Europe and the 13th largest in the world. At its current rate, Romanian wine production is slightly above New Zealand’s.
Unfortunately, the Romanian wine-making industry suffered a lot in the communist era, where quantity was prioritised over quality. After the fall of communism, the country dealt with hyperinflation and hard economic times. Like the majority of Romanians, the wine industry suffered as a result. In this time, mass market wine – a.k.a. cheap plonk – made its way into the majority of exports. Romanian wine now has to battle these preconceptions of low quality (and related price expectations).
Fact #4: There’s a new generation of Romanian wine makers
In the last ten years, a new generation of wine makers has broken onto the scene. These are small, craft producers, who took advantage of EU funds to invest in new winemaking technology and replant older vines with better quality clones.
They experiment with the winemaking style, taking a new world approach to the process. Some of them even hire oenologists from France and Germany to help them express the best of the terroir.
These niche producers dedicate an important percentage of their produce to premium, high-quality wine, made from the best grapes and with the highest care and attention.
In response, some of the bigger, well-established producers have started to make more premium wine from their best grapes, reacting to a growing demand for quality wine at home and abroad.
Here at Vincarta, we want to draw attention to these quality producers. The list is not exhaustive, but provides a good example of what to look for on the label. Most of them are found in the Dealu Mare sub-region. Think of this as the ‘Bordeaux’ of Romanian wine.
- Dealu Mare (Domeniile Săhăteni Lacerta, Davino, SERVE, Budureasca, Basilescu)
- Drăgăşani (Prince Știrbey)
- Drîncea (Crama Oprişor, Domeniile Segarcea)
- Dobrogea/Murfatlar (Alira)
We visited one of them in March 2017, Domeniile Săhăteni, and decided to bring four of their top wines to the UK market.
Fact #5: Premium Romanian wine is great value
The last five years saw the emergence of Romanian premium wine using international grape varieties, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay, and some local grape varieties.
Unfortunately, the UK wine retailers sell a lot of average quality, low-priced wine. At a price below £10 per bottle (including £2.50 in taxes), these wines are unlikely to become a revelation.
Even reputable magazines such as Decanter rarely include the new kids on the block in their annual tasting and assessment of global wines. If you only taste the mass market, you’re not going to find the quality you’re looking for.
For a very good or outstanding quality of wine, you should be looking at bottles priced around £13-15, with the best quality wines starting at around £20 per bottle.
This might sound like a lot, but, for similar quality French wine, you have to pay at least twice, if not three to four times as much.
At Vincarta, we’ve tasted and published our ratings and assessments of all the premium Romanian wines we’ve come across. See our articles about premium Romanian wine tasting, wine of the week Apogeum 2012, wine of the week Anima Merlot 2012, and tasting a Romanian indigenous white.
Fact #6: The best grapes to choose in Romanian wine
Most Romanian wine producers make wine out of a mix of international and indigenous grape varieties. More recently, producers have focused more on making wine exclusively out of international grape varieties. Many top producers replanted their vineyards with high-quality clones, mostly French.
High-quality wine starts with high-quality grapes, so, it made sense to plant a genetic material suitable for this. The most popular international white grapes are:
The most popular red grapes are:
But you don’t stick with familiar names. Romanian local grape varieties can be very good as well, including:
- Fetească – makes dry, fresh, intensely perfumed white wines. It has some body and can be barrel fermented for additional complexity.
- Tămȃioasă Romȃnească (‘frankincence grape’) or Romanian Muscat – a small berried clone of the Muscat Blanc à Petit Grains, one of the oldest grape varieties in the world and the most exquisite of the Muscat grapes. It results in white wines, intensely perfumed, aromatic and quite difficult to make as dry wines.
- Fetească Neagra – makes delicious dry red wines, full-bodied and with medium tannins that become velvety with age. It is the oldest Romanian grape variety. With aromas of spice, black or red fruit, dried plums, it has an affinity to oak, and can produce outstanding wines if yields are kept under control.
Fact #7: Romanian wine is food friendly
We sometimes drink white wine as an aperitif, but most of the time Romanians like to drink their wine with food. Romanians are very hospitable. If you’re lucky enough to get invited to a Romanian meal, expect to see the table close to collapsing from the weight of food and booze. We always put the best things we have in the house on the table. It’s also quite common to spend four to six hours tucking into a proper feast.
I firmly believe that barbecuing should become a national sport and we certainly love meat. The local cuisine is rich, savoury and tasty. That’s why the red wines need to have tannin, to cut through the richness of Romanian traditional dishes.
Fact #8: Romanian wine makers are bending the tradition in their innovative approach
During my interview with Aurelia Vișinescu, I asked her about recent trends and developments in the Romanian wine. She noted that wine makers experiment in two ways:
- Making dry wines out of grapes traditionally vinified as sweet or semi-sweet. Aurelia Vișinescu, at Domeniile Săhăteni is a pioneer herself. She was the first winemaker in Romania to vinify Fetească Neagră as a dry wine aged in oak barrels. She also produces a fabulous, dry Romanian Muscat, with a superb typicity of the Muscat Blanc à Petit Grain aroma profile.
- Experimentation on the winemaking style, with modern styles or old world techniques. Sometimes blends change from one harvest to the next.
This effervescence might be confusing for wine professionals, used to traditional regions obeying a certain style and regionality. But I think it’s crucial to be able to experiment as a winemaker. Great things arise when you use the grapes you want and in the proportions you like. Without the stringent, often silly rules of a regional appellation, wine can be anything you want it to be. Take the controversy of Super Tuscans versus Chianti for example.
It’s like watching a Master Chef competition. There may be speed bumps along the way but I believe that invention, talent and high-quality ingredients will result in something amazing. There are already a few great producers, but give Romania another ten years and see what happens.
Fact #9: Romanian wine regions
Romania has eight wine regions, which are named after geographical regions:
- Transylvania Highlands
- Moldavian Hill
- Muntenia Hills
- Oltenia Hills
- Banat Hills
- Dobrogea Hills
- Crișana Maramureș Hills
- The Danube Terraces
However, knowing the Romanian wine regions is less important than knowing the key top quality producers (the map in fact #4 provides a good indication of what to look for). The sub-regions are also interesting, as they are the ones given DOC status. Romanian wine will have the name of the grapes on the label, making it easier to choose something you like.
Important tip: avoid wine bottles that feature images of Dracula. It’s just a tourist cliché.
Fact #10: Romania’s historical wine
Romania produced one wine that was famous across Europe in the 19th century. This wine is Grasă de Cotnari, a sweet wine with Botrytis character like a good Sauternes, and an ever-present rival Hungarian Tokay. It comes from the Cotnari region and, while it’s still sold there, it needs a bit of a facelift and revival in quality.
Despite its current lull, Grasă de Cotnari proves one undeniable fact: Romania can produce world-class wines. With this in mind, there’s every reason to believe the latest generation will propel the country back onto the world stage.
Romanian wine
From Wikipedia,
the free encyclopedia
Romania is one of the world's
largest wine producers and
sixth largest among European wine-producing countries. In 2015 it produced
around 4.069 million hectolitres of wine. In
recent years, Romania has attracted many European business people and wine
buyers, due to the affordable prices of both vineyards and wines compared to
other wine producing nations such as France, Germany, and Italy.
Romania's most cultivated grape varieties are for white wines,
including Fetească Albă, Fetească Regală, Riesling, Aligoté, Sauvignon, Muscat, Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Tămâioasă Românească, Grasă de Cotnari, Galbenă de Odobești. Also, the main grape
varieties for red wines are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Băbească Neagră, Fetească Neagră, Pinot Noir.
History
The winery of Hagianoff mansion in Manasia, Ialomița County,
established in 1899
Romania has one of the oldest wine making traditions in the world, its
viticulture dating back more than 6,000 years. Due to suitable climate,
relief and soils, viticulture became a current activity of the local
inhabitants mainly in the hilly areas. Numerous local wine grape varieties have
been obtained during medieval time by empirical selection, becoming
representatives for Romanian wine regions. Up to the phylloxera
crisis, each Romanian wine region has its own wine grape assortment,
that generate specific local wines. Since the medieval period, wine has been
the traditional alcoholic beverage of the Romanians.
In the 1880`s phylloxera (a pale
yellow sap-sucking insect that attacks the roots of vines) was introduced
accidentally also in Romania (1872, Chitorani, Dealul Mare wine-growing
region), and destroyed the local viticulture in the coming years. Restoration
of the Romanian viticulture lasted until the beginning of the 20th century, and
was done mainly by planting French wine grape varieties such as Merlot, Chardonnay, Pinot noir, Sauvignon, Cabernet
Sauvingnon etc. Besides these, phylloxera resistant grape
hybrids were also planted.
Romania has about 187,000 hectares of vine plntations, that ranks it on
sixth place between the European wine-producing countries. With a wine
production of about 4.5 mil hl/year Romania is the thirteenth largest wine
producing country in the world.
Wine producing
regions
Main wine regions of Romania are:
·
Târnave
·
Alba
·
Aiud
·
Lechința
·
Cotnari
·
Iași
·
Huși
·
Zeletin
·
Iveşti
·
Covurlui
·
Panciu
·
Odobești
·
Cotești
·
Recaș
·
Silagiu
·
Teremia
·
Tirol
·
Diosig
·
Greaca
·
Ostrov
·
Calafat
Wines
The wine grape assortments of Romanian wine growing regions encompasses a
large number of varieties for white, red and aromatic wines. Each wine growing
region has its own, traditional varieties, as: Zghihara de Huși and Busuioaca
de Bohotin for the Huși wine growing region; Feteasca neagră for the Iași wine
growing region; Grasa de Cotnari and Frâncușa for the Cotnari wine growing
region; Crâmpoșie for
the Drăgășani wine
growing region; Băbeasca
Neagră for the Nicorești wine growing region; Iordană și
Ardeleancă for the Târnave;
or Mustoasă de Măderat for the Miniș wine growing region. Also, each
wine growing region cultivate international wine grape varieties, mainly: Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Riesling
italico, Pinot gris and Traminer for white wines; and Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Pinot noir for red wines. All these local
and international varieties are at the basis of a large number of wines,
presented mainly under the name of the wine grape variety (e.g. Sauvignon,
Feteasca albă, Tămâioasă românească) and less under the name of producer
(e.g. DAVINO,
ALIRA, LACERTA), or under a marketing name (e.g. Serafim, Bon Viveur, Gramma,
René Faure etc.).
·
Whites
·
The most known Romanian wine grape varieties for white wines are Fetească albă, Crâmpoșie and Fetească regală.
Feteasca albă and Fetească regală produces dry or semi-dry wines, with a
moderate alcohol content (11.5 to 12%) and acidity, with finesse and rich
floral aromas, while Crâmpoșia is known for freshness and fruitiness wines,
with moderate alcohol content and pronounced acidity.
·
Reds
·
The most known Romanian wine grape variety for red quality wines is Feteasca
neagră, originating in the Uricani,
Iași wine region. It produces ″dry, demi-dry or sweet wines,
with an alcohol content of 12-14%, a deep red colour with ruby shades, and a
black currant flavour, which becomes richer and smoother with ageing″.
·
Aromatics
Between the aromatic wine grape varieties, the most appreciated and
cultivated are Tămâioasa
românească and Busuioacă de Bohotin.
Beside these traditional wines obtained from native varieties, one can find
wines obtained from all best known international wine grape varieties for
white, red and aromatic wines.
Romania
Romania has great potential for varied and high
quality wine production, but it is unlikely to be fully realised for many
years. The country has a greater area of vineyard than any other in eastern
Europe, and the sweet white wines of Cotnari in the north east were as famous
as Tokaj and Constantia in their day.
Romania is also, unlike Hungary and Bulgaria, a
wine-drinking country. It lies on the same latitude as France, even if its
climate is more dramatically continental (although winters tend to be much less
harsh on the Black Sea coast in the east).
Romania boasts that it has considerably more Cabernet
Sauvignon planted than Bulgaria (which has had such success with exporting the
variety) but the chief grape varieties are the indigenous white Fetească, a
twentieth-century crossing Fetească Regală and the red Fetească Neagră. They
yield aromatic wines which vary enormously in sweetness level and quality.
Welschriesling (the variety behind Banat Riesling from the far west of the
country), Aligoté and Merlot are other important varieties, although there are
also considerable acreages of Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris, Rkatsiteli, Muscat
Ottonel, Traminer and the native Romanian Grasă and Tămâioasă which were
responsible for Cotnari.
The atmospheric, wooded hills of Transylvania in the
middle of the country are the source of many, potentially haunting white wines,
notably in the Tirnave, or Târnave, region. Other geographical names to have
escaped the country on the mere 15% of wine production that is exported include
Murfatlar (also the name of the leading producer here) on the coast, which has
a certain reputation for sweet wines (a Romanian speciality), and Dealu Mare on
the Carpathian foothills north of Bucharest, which can turn out some superior
red wines, including some rather soupy but very inexpensive Blaufränkisch, once
thought to be Pinot Noir. Davino has developed a following for their reds from
Dealu Mare based on Fetească Neagră.
For the moment, however, Romania's wine producers
suffer like all Romanians from the chronic shortages of the materials and
equipment that are considered commonplace in the west, notably refrigeration to
control fermentation temperatures and to store bottled wine safely. It still
remains to be seen whether Romania’s accession to the EU in 2007 will be of
ultimate benefit to its wine industry.
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